Aug
25

Are diamonds really forever

By Anja Merret

When you look at the world of advertising, can you think of a couple of ads that have really changed your buying habits, impacted on the way you think about a product or even just left a jingle bouncing around in your mind. Possibly you might even think that no advert has ever had any kind of impact on you. You have managed to avoid consumerism. Pat on the back.

See what you think about this case study. An appeal for advice was written in a newsletter that drops into my in-box on a Friday. It’s the Fridaycities newsletter which was previously known as the London by London group. These newsletters are a collection of news snippets by Londoners who share their experiences living in London.

The first snippet in yesterday’s mail, was by a chap who has decided that it is time to get engaged to the love of his life and to ‘ask her hand in marriage’ – his words. He writes that he has got the setting for the proposal, worked out what he wants to say and the day has been planned. All he is missing is the ring. And contrary to what De Beer’s advises, he is not in favour of two month’s salary. His plea is for advice as to where to buy the ring and how much to spend.

Of course he is looking to buy a diamond engagement ring. What has made the diamond the must have ring that 80% of brides in the USA wear? And how did this tradition which one would perceive to be a western one, attached to a white dressed wedding celebration, migrate to Japan? Japan had no extensive wedding tradition before, but now has 80% of its brides wearing diamond rings.

Contrary to popular belief, the diamond engagement ring was not fashionable before the late 1930s. This is not a tradition which has been handed down over centuries. In fact it is not even one century old. But when advertising, which can’t create demand but can certainly create desire, hits the spot a whole new market may be discovered.

Cast your mind back to the late 1930s. The diamond market was being flooded by the discovery of huge fields in Africa, Australia and Russia. The findings lifted diamonds out of the category of rare gems. Diamonds were also of little use. They could be ground into little specks and used for drill bits and that was about it.

Diamonds are tough and almost indestructible. This made it a very non-consumer type item. After all the whole point of consumerism is that the thing breaks and one has to buy another one. The original light bulb lasted considerably longer until the manufacturers built obsolescence into the product so that they could sell more. The original cars did not rust. That was invented to ensure more cars were sold.

The third major problem the diamond industry faced was that diamonds were perceived to be an investment. Which meant that they would be sold as a commodity. Every time there was a fluctuation in the stock exchange for instance, diamonds would end up on the market. This could deflate the value of a diamond depending on how many people had to sell their diamonds.

Traditionally diamonds had been for the consumption of the wealthy and royalty. Crowns, scepters, necklaces and ear rings worn during ceremonial occasions had diamonds and were definitely only meant for the elite. What to do when royalty starts loosing its importance and in many cases even disappears.

De Beers, the company which controlled the diamond industry, had some real problems. In 1938 they appointed an ad agency N W Ayer in the States to address the problem of increasing availability of product and shrinking market. The agency invested time and money into extensive market research.

The research shone the spotlight on several major problems. Diamonds were not perceived to be associated with any form of engagement or marriage ritual. Further, in the same way as the writer in the newsletter, young men in the survey had no idea as to how much to pay for a ring.

Over and above these findings, De Beers had the problem that they did not actually sell the diamonds. They purely supplied the trade which then refashioned the stones into consumer goods. How would one advertise for a category, was the question. One doesn’t sell shoes, cars or cigarettes. One sells Nike, Chrysler or Camels.

In 1939 the first ads for diamonds as a consumer item with a difference were launched. It was different in that diamond rings were bought just like any consumer item. But contrary to a normal consumer product, they should never be sold again, and of course not destroyed either.

Within a few years the slogan ‘A Diamond is Forever’ was born. The advertising focused on reminding people that one should buy a diamond, but never sell it, after all it represented ones eternal love. Diamond rings should be passed on to the next generation, but never sold. The small stone was for ever and could not be pulled away from the concept of love.

The diamond ring would represent ones loves and the larger the stone, the larger the love! But over and above, to guide the men, De Beers suggested that two month’s salary should be the minimum they should spend on a ring. Of course the statement that a diamond would represent eternal love, isn’t really true. Even if the love should last, no divorce ensuing, one would die at some stage.

De Beers smiled all the way to the bank. They, with the help of their ad agency, had developed an entirely new market, they had persuaded this market not to sell the diamonds ever, and they gave the men folk, the purchasers some idea as to how much they should spend to celebrate their love.

And succession planning? Have you noticed the ads for the 10th anniversary diamond band, and the 25th anniversary diamond necklace, never mind the diamond ear studs and tennis bracelets. Word of warning. Never take that diamond ring or necklace back to the store ten seconds after you bought it. The shock of the devalued price could just knock you out.

Did you get hooked by this advertising campaign?

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5 Comments

1

[...] Anja Merret presents Are diamonds really forever posted at anja merret, saying, “When you look at the world of advertising, can you think of a couple of ads that have really changed your buying habits, impacted on the way you think about a product or even just left a jingle bouncing around in your mind.” [...]

2

Anja makes a very good point. It’s unfortunate that the inflated high price of diamond jewelry is at the emotional expense of couples who just want to demonstrate their love for each other. We can only hope this situation will change in the near future.

3

My husband and I agreed that when we got engaged, we wouldn’t waste a lot of money on the ring. Instead, we bought a simple ring and donated what we saved to charity.

4

Interesting article, you really have to love the power of the new media press as a voice for everyone to express their point of view. Thank you.

5

Very interesting article. Given the huge mining costs and then cutting costs and then distribution, as a diamond seller myself I would like to see whether diamond mark-ups are unparalleled by other consumer products. Take Coke for example, although cheap by the bottle I would say most consumers spend more money in their lifetime buying coke than they do on diamonds. I would almost gaurantee that the cost of producing the coke is comparatively far less than the cost of producing the diamond. The advertising campaign of de-beers was very witty, however I think we have all been brain washed a lot more through simple day to day products. What are your thoughts??
I sell my diamonds on line and I sell them at extremely competitive prices. De-beers etc lose contact with the final seller, whereas companies like Coke do not. I say the price of diamonds will continue to drop.
Jake
http://www.diamond-rings.co.nz

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